Mini Rex

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Rabbit Care Resources: 

(This information is from our own experiences and research and is by no means a complete guide for every rabbit.  It is meant as a starting point for rabbit care.  Always do your own cross-research and consult with an experienced veterinarian for specific situations.)

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Housing

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What do you feed rabbits?

Rabbits have different nutrition requirements throughout their lifetime based on age, breed, metabolism, activity level, and breeding status.  They have an amazingly specialized digestive system that, although effective, is very sensitive in some ways.  A healthy rabbit starts with their gut.   The basics remain the same for all with adjustments made based on the individual:

-Always have clean, fresh water available.

  -Bowls are easier to clean, but easily get debris and paws in them and may turn into a new toy to throw around.

  -For bowls, use a heavy stoneware dish or one that can be latched to the cage/enclosure.

    -Stoneware bowls

    -Latching crocks

  -Bottles are easier to keep full and free of debris, but harder to clean thoroughly.  Found with most pet stores and show venders.

    -Plastic Bottles

    -Glass Bottles

-Grass Hay should be free-fed or offered multiple times per day.  Rabbit have immensely specialized, and

  sensitive, digestive systems that require the long strands of grass hays to function properly.

  - Timothy Grass Hay

  - "Meadow Grass" Hay

  - Orchard Grass Hay

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-Pelletized Feed is a supplement to to hay that fills in the gaps and adds enough protein, minerals, and more to the diet.  It's best to stick to the pellets without mixed candies in them, or "lucky charms feed" as we call it.  A complete feed is only complete when each bite has everything required and cannot have the sweets and treats picked out.  Our Mini Rex usually eat between 1/4-1/2 cup per night while the New Zealands are around 1/2cup per night.  We feed pellets once at night and generally feed less when more than a few pellets are left by morning, or when Body Condition gets high.  Whenever changing to a new bag or a new brand, always slowly mix in the new pellet over a week's time to get the gut used to it. 

  - Pet Rabbits have a more treat-filled diet and (usually) are not needing the extra protein or calcium that breeding animals require.  A high-quality pellet of between 12-16% protein works well for them.  We recommend Oxbow who have many quality and consistency checks with their rabbit feed, hay, treats, and toys.

  - Show Rabbits take a bit more input to keep them in exhibition shape and often have fewer treats being given out on a regular basis.  For 4-class animals, a 16% protein pellet works well.  For most 6-class and Angora rabbits, a 18% protein pellet works well.  

  - Breeding Does/Growing Kits require higher levels of calcium to maintain a steady milk supply and healthy bone growth.  Generally an 18% protein feed with supplemented Alfalfa Hay until the kits are weaned is suggested.  

  - Baby Rabbits are especially susceptible to digestive troubles when they start trying out solid food at 2-3 weeks and when they're weaned away around 6-7 weeks.  In addition to the free-fed grass hay diet with higher protein pellets, be sure to add in extra dandelion greens when available.

   

How do I know if my rabbit is fat, thin, or healthy?

- Body Condition should be evaluated every day before feeding treats and supplements.  This is a scale of how much muscle/fat is over the bones.  An animal who is in perfect balance is considered a "3" and will feel solid and have good muscling and only a small amount of fat over the shoulders, elbows and belly.  "2" is a lean one and is needing a few more pellets and greens.  "1" is emaciated and in emergency need of dandelions, more pellets, and a trip to a veterinarian if weight does not increase.  Going the other direction, "4" has some extra squish over the back, elbows, and can be a little jiggly when lifted.  Cut back on pellets and treats a little and ensure Grass hay is available free-feed until back to a "3".  "5" is dangerously obese, showing a ballooned potbelly of fat and large deposits over the rest of the body.  Lack of cleaning around the vent or other areas requiring bending, as well as soft stool or diarrhea may also be noted.  Immediately cut back to almost completely hay with just a small amount of pellets and greens.  If weight does not reduce from this, check with your vet.

-Treats are highly useful and highly enjoyed!  Take consideration to the type of treat for how often and how much to give.  An easy way to think of it is treats being comparable to candy.  A child doesn't function well with five snickers bars and a cake a day, nor does a bunny with their versions.

  - Frequent or almost free-feed treats include most herbs (Thyme, Parsley, Oregano, Dill, Basil, etc.), Clovers, and Kale(per conversations with our vet and CornellUni, this one portion of the brassica family does not pose the mineral content consideration as others).

  - Semi-limited are higher in mineral, water, or fat content but not super high:  These would be brassica family plants (cabbage, broccoli, brusselsprouts), spinach, lettuces (excluding iceberg types), sunflower seeds, green beans, carrot/radish/beet tops...

  - Infrequent treats or training only are higher in sugars, waters, and/or fats: fruits, carrot oranges, seed cakes, yogurt treats, iceberg lettuce...

 

Do rabbits need to chew things?

Yes!  Rabbit teeth continuously grow throughout life and require regular wearing down to stay the right length.  While pellets and hay do some wear, offering harder items not only helps to keep those teeth nice and healthy but also adds some great enrichment opportunities for the bunny!

-Chew Toys help maintain healthy teeth and are just plain fun for the rabbits.  Having them available also can reduce chewing on less wanted items.  Rabbit teeth continue growing throughout their lifetime and, while the hay and pellets do help, wood based toys are far more efficient.

  - Fresh pruned stick and twigs from rabbit safe trees: Apple and Red Dogwood are our favourites as they grow super fast and are safe fresh.

  - Chunks of non-treated, dried wood.

  - Get creative!  Drill some holes through sticks and small chunks of wood, then thread wire through and hang it as a replaceable chew toy.  Or make homemade woven grapevines and dry them into fun shapes to throw around.

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Do rabbits need brushing or grooming?

Most rabbits, when in a clean, healthy and happy environment, will groom themselves.  However, all bunnies shed and sometimes they can use some extra help.  In our experience, the simplest answer is often the best: hands are our grooming tool of choice.  Regular petting removes much of the loose fur and gentle plucking can pull the tufts of fur from the occasional heavy shedding.  For the times extra is needed, these tools can also be of use:

- Grooming Block (lightly removes top layer of loose fluff)

- "Furminator" Brush (When carefully used, can get out undercoat and clean up your carpet after the fur storm)

- Wire brush (Use carefully to prevent skin injury, can work well to loosen small mats or brush out wool-furred buns)

- (Rex coats only) low-quality, barely sticky lint roller (The slight stick picks up just the loose hairs on a rex-furred animal.  Do not use on normal)

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Can rabbits be bathed?

Baths are a last resort for super dirty bunnies.  Especially with rex-coated animals, aim to keep their environment clean enough to avoid needing water washes.  When required, use pet-safe shampoo and warm water.  Prevent water/soap from going into their ears, eyes, or nose.  Once done, dry thoroughly in a warm area to prevent hypothermia or getting ill.

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