Mini Rex

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Rabbit Care Resources: 

(This information is from our own experiences and research and is by no means a complete guide for every rabbit.  It is meant as a starting point for rabbit care.  Always do your own cross-research and consult with an experienced veterinarian for specific situations.)

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Housing (In Progress)

Each rabbit should have a safe and secure area to relax when unattended.  Just like a puppy, they could chew or eat things dangerous to their health, such as paint, carpeting, and furniture.  Sometimes accidentally, sometimes on purpose.  This area also limits their potential area of mess.  As to what this safe and secure place is, there are as many options as your creativity can give!  "One-room apartment" cage, "rural house" hutch and exercise pen, or even a "mansion" of a personal room or entire house to free-roam in.  Just like humans, bunnies can live happy lives in many styles so long as some basic principles are met: Adequate space, safe area, enrichment, and location.​

1. Space.  This is where they'll spend the majority of their time, so make sure it is of appropriate size for the breed of rabbit.  In general, an absolute minimum is large enough to let them stretch out while laying and to stand fully on four paws without their ears touching the roof.  As a rule of thumb, the closer to this minimum their enclosure is, the more often they should be let out to play under supervision and the more enrichment is required in their area.  If your rabbit is a "running" breed rabbit (Tan, Belgian Hare, Checkered Giant, English Spot, Rhinelander, etc), they'll need extra space to be able to "run" in their main enclosure.  Aim for four hops long at least. 

There is no maximum on space other than to ensure they have somewhere available to hide away when wanting a break, such as a hidey hole or box.  When planning out, think of how often you'll be able to give them attention and time to play.  If you're at work most of the day, look for larger enclosures.  If you're home most of the time and just need a safe place for them to sleep or when you're out, smaller can be satisfactory.  If you're limited on space, perhaps consider aiming for smaller, lower energy rabbit breeds so it's easier to give them more space.

2. Safety.  When unsupervised, we want to give the rabbits a safe place to relax where they cannot easily get into trouble.  In houses with other animals, such as dogs or cats, their enclosure needs to be secure enough to let them feel safe when alone.  Avoiding items that could be eaten and cause blockages or toxicity is also important. 

Wood is a very versatile material, but is easily chewed and can absorb stray urine.  When used, look for structures that keep the wood in areas that cannot be chewed and that any paint or stain used is either animal-safe or hard to reach.. 

Wire is a little more limited on structure and design and isn't as pretty, but can be easily cleaned and allows a lot of air movement.  Make sure flooring has the narrowly placed wire facing upwards and there are solid areas away from their bathroom to allow feet to rest.  This helps prevent sore hocks developing.

On any wire edges, using plastic "wire guards" over those points can keep arms and rabbits less scratched.

​3. Enrichment.  Toys! Ramps! Boxes and more!  Chew toys are a must, and the more the rabbit will be in their enclosure, the more they need to play with.  Adding depth and areas to go up and down and under can increase the interest of the environment.  Boxes are amazing to hide in, dig into, chew up, toss around, and whatever else your rabbit can think of to do with it!  Hang things to chew at different levels, include mobile hay balls to push around, or wood jumps to hop over.  There are so many additions you can make as well, especially if building your own hutch, to take an empty box into a rabbit playground!  

4. Location.  Inside or outside?  While both can be done, there are pros and cons to each to consider. Overall, indoors is best in 9/10 situations.  Temperature, predators and parasites, and convenience for giving attention are easiest outside.  For those with limited space or allergies, outdoors can suit better, when set up right.

Outdoors: Rabbits are furry, heat-producing mammals that cannot sweat.  They handle cold far better than heat, doing best in mid 50F-low 70F ranges.  If outside in the summer, take steps to keep that temperature low:  good air flow, possibly multiple levels of shade, and plans for hot days to add ice or fans or wet their ears as needed.  On the hottest days, you may need to have an area indoors just to keep them safe.  Biting flies, mosquitos, and parasites like fleas, ticks, and mites also need mitigation.  Keeping the area clean, ventilated, and raised off the ground (possibly with a dusting of diatomaceous earth at the post bases) can help with this.  Deterrents used for bugs must be done with the safety of the rabbit considered, so be exceptionally cautious with placement if using any chemicals or strong scents.  Predators are not just the larger dogs or fox.  Weasels, rats, and even just getting scared by visits of predators can be devastating.  Strong and secure hutches or cages with areas to get away from the outside wire and with small enough spaces to keep weasels or rats out is a big step toward that.    During winter, as well-stuffed box of bedding and straw is almost a requirement to give the rabbits a place to maintain their heat in those colder days.  Allowing air flow while avoiding drafts and humidity is key.  Sheds or barns can help with this.  Larger rabbits have a better chance at maintaining heat during winter than smaller breeds, so be exceptionally prepared if housing a smaller rabbit outside in winter.

Indoors:  Ventilation = need less dust and can't skimp on cleaning, lower dust bedding can be more costly, space within home.  But: Temperatures stay in healthy ranges more, more interaction with family, near zero predator/parasite concerns.  

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Bedding:  Pine/Aspen shavings are most economical, but are dusty.  Pelletized pine bedding has less dust, but can be harder to rinse out and can come with a processing scent.  Paper beddings, such as Carefresh, are amazingly absorbent and low/no dust, but can be more expensive.

Litterboxes:  Most rabbits can be at least partially litter trained (the important part: urine!)  Rabbits are naturally clean animals with a majority inherently using one corner or spot for everything.  Simply place the box in that corner until they relate the box as their pee spot more than the corner itself, then you can add more boxes around when out so their "corner" is available everywhere they play!  We personally like to use boxes with raised wire, just to keep bunny paws from standing in their own business.  The wire can be easily cleaned, yet droppings fall right through.  Good idea to have one fixed to a wall or held in place to avoid it becoming a new toy to toss about.

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What do you feed rabbits?

Rabbits have different nutrition requirements throughout their lifetime based on age, breed, metabolism, activity level, and breeding status.  They have an amazingly specialized digestive system that, although effective, is very sensitive in some ways.  A healthy rabbit starts with their gut.   The basics remain the same for all with adjustments made based on the individual:

-Always have clean, fresh water available.

  -Bowls are easier to clean, but also get debris and paws in them and may turn into a new toy to throw around if not secured.

  -For bowls, use a heavy stoneware dish or one that can be latched to the cage/enclosure.

    -Stoneware bowls

    -Latching crocks

  -Bottles are easier to keep full and free of debris, but harder to clean thoroughly.  Found with most pet stores and show venders.

    -Plastic Bottles

    -Glass Bottles

-Grass Hay should be free-fed or offered multiple times per day.  Rabbit have immensely specialized, and

  sensitive, digestive systems that require the long strands of grass hays to function properly.

  - Timothy Grass Hay (Main hay to feed, has the ideal nutrition from hay)

  - "Meadow Grass" Hay (A nice mixture of grasses)

  - Orchard Grass Hay (Higher calories, but some have found it a lower-dust option for those with allergies)

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-Pelletized Feed is a supplement to to hay that fills in the gaps and adds enough protein, minerals, and more to the diet.  It's best to stick to the pellets without mixed candies in them, or "lucky charms feed" as we call it.  A complete feed is only complete when each bite has everything required and cannot have the sweets and treats picked out.  Our Mini Rex usually eat between 1/4-1/2 cup per night while the New Zealands are around 1/2cup per night.  We feed pellets once at night and generally feed less when more than a few pellets are left by morning, or when Body Condition gets high.  Whenever changing to a new bag or a new brand, always slowly mix in the new pellet over a week's time to get the gut microbiome used to it. 

  - Pet Rabbits have a more treat-filled diet and (usually) are not needing the extra protein or calcium that breeding animals require.  A high-quality pellet of between 12-16% protein works well for them.  We recommend Oxbow who have many quality and consistency checks with their rabbit feed, hay, treats, and toys.  They even made a uniform nutrition "pellet" that comes in multiple textures to add that enrichment "lucky charms pellets" usually market (our guys always go for the big chunks first, but the doughnut shapes are their second favourite!).

  - Show Rabbits take a bit more input to keep them in exhibition shape and often have fewer treats being given out on a regular basis.  For 4-class animals, a 16% protein pellet works well.  For most 6-class and Angora/production rabbits, a 18% protein pellet works well.  Look for high fiber in the pellet.

  - Breeding Does/Growing Kits require higher levels of calcium to maintain a steady milk supply and healthy bone growth.  Generally an 18% protein feed with supplemented Alfalfa Hay until the kits are weaned is suggested.  

  - Baby Rabbits are especially susceptible to digestive troubles when they start trying out solid food at 2-3 weeks and when they're weaned away around 6-7 weeks.  In addition to the free-fed grass hay diet with higher protein pellets, be sure to add in extra dandelion greens when available. They work magic and the rabbits love them.

   

How do I know if my rabbit is fat, thin, or healthy?

- Body Condition should be evaluated every day before feeding treats and supplements.  This is a scale of how much muscle/fat is over the bones.  An animal who is in perfect balance is considered a "3" and will feel solid and have good muscling and only a small amount of fat over the shoulders, elbows and belly.  "2" is a lean one and is needing a few more pellets and greens.  "1" is emaciated and in emergency need of dandelions, more pellets, and a trip to a veterinarian if weight does not increase.  Going the other direction, "4" has some extra squish over the back, elbows, and can be a little jiggly when lifted.  Cut back on pellets and treats a little and ensure Grass hay is available free-feed until back to a "3".  "5" is dangerously obese, showing a ballooned potbelly of fat and large deposits over the rest of the body.  Lack of cleaning around the vent or other areas requiring bending, as well as soft stool or diarrhea may also be noted.  Immediately cut back to almost completely hay with just a small amount of pellets and greens.  Try to get them to hop around a bit extra, too.  If weight does not reduce from this, check with your vet.

  -Treats are highly useful and highly enjoyed!  Take consideration to the type of treat for how often and how much to give.  An easy way to think of it is treats being comparable to candy.  A child doesn't function well with five snickers bars and a cake a day, nor does a bunny with their tiny versions.

  - Frequent or almost free-feed treats include most herbs (Thyme, Parsley, Oregano, Dill, Basil, etc.), Dandelions, Clovers, and Kale(unlike the rest of the brassica family, this one type does not have the oxalates to avoid).

  - Semi-limited are higher in mineral, water, or fat content but not super high:  These would be brassica family plants (cabbage, broccoli, brusselsprouts), spinach, lettuces (excluding iceberg types), sunflower seeds, green beans, carrot/radish/beet tops...

  - Infrequent treats or training only are higher in sugars, waters, and/or fats: fruits, carrot oranges, seed cakes, yogurt treats, iceberg lettuce...

 

Do rabbits need to chew things?

Yes!  Rabbit teeth continuously grow throughout life and require regular wearing down to stay the right length.  While pellets and hay do some wear, offering harder items not only helps to keep those teeth nice and healthy but also adds some great enrichment opportunities for the bunny!

-Chew Toys help maintain healthy teeth and are just plain fun for the rabbits.  Having them available also can reduce chewing on less wanted items.  Rabbit teeth continue growing throughout their lifetime and, while the hay and pellets do help, wood based toys are far more efficient.

  - Fresh pruned stick and twigs from rabbit safe trees: Apple and Red Dogwood are our favourites as they grow super fast and are safe fresh.

  - Chunks of non-treated, dried wood.

  - Get creative!  Drill some holes through sticks and small chunks of wood, then thread wire through and hang it as a replaceable chew toy.  Or make homemade woven grapevines and dry them into fun shapes to throw around.

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Do rabbits need brushing or grooming?

Most rabbits, when in a clean, healthy and happy environment, will groom themselves.  However, all bunnies shed and sometimes they can use some extra help.  In our experience, the simplest answer is often the best: hands are our grooming tool of choice.  Regular petting removes much of the loose fur and gentle plucking can pull the tufts of fur from the occasional heavy shedding.  For the times extra is needed, these tools can also be of use:

- Grooming Block (lightly removes top layer of loose fluff)

- "Furminator" Brush (When carefully used, can get out undercoat and clean up your carpet after the fur storm)

- Wire brush (Use carefully to prevent skin injury, can work well to loosen small mats or brush out wool-furred buns)

- (Rex coats only) low-quality, barely sticky lint roller (The slight stick picks up just the loose hairs on a rex-furred animal.  Do not use on normal)

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Can rabbits be bathed?

Baths are a last resort for super dirty bunnies.  Especially with rex-coated animals, aim to keep their environment clean enough to avoid needing water washes.  When required, use pet-safe shampoo and warm water.  Prevent water/soap from going into their ears, eyes, or nose.  Once done, dry thoroughly in a warm area to prevent hypothermia or getting ill.

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